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Post by Baz Faz on Jan 21, 2023 6:11:38 GMT 2
We flew on Thursday night from Heathrow which is a rubbish airport. Because of my wretched foot I requested a wheelchair. I had many wheelchairs. One would take me a certain distance then unload me and we would wait for another one. It took an unbelievable two hours to reach the departure lounge.
We flew EVA, a Taiwanese airline that few have heard of. It flies non-stop LHR-BKK. The only other airline that does this is Thai Airways (Thai is 4 star, EVA five star). All the other airlines have a plane change in the middle of the night. We flew Biz class which we have decided we must do on long haul and EVA did us proud. Dinner was exceptionally good. Other airlines give you a tray of food. EVA serves each course separately (there were 5). My favourite was the roast guinea fowl with pickled shiitake mushrooms - so good I mopped the sauce up with chunks of bread roll (which was warm). Wines were excellent (Mrs Faz particularly enjoyed the 2006 vintage champagne).
Bangkok airport was a breeze. The wheelchair requested was waiting outside the aircraft door. Mrs Faz got some of her normal 10,000 steps a day - it was over a kilometre until we exited the building. Having a wheelchair meant priority going through Immigration. There was an appalling queue for taxis but my wheelchair pusher went straight to the head of the line. I used to grind my teeth when I saw this happen but I was very happy.
In Bangkok we have stayed at Kaolang Home ever since I discovered it. It is just upstream from the tourist areas. There are no big concrete constructions just friendly locals who smile and return our sawasdee kap greeting. Kaolang started out as a restaurant for locals and then 15 years ago added on some simple rooms. It is actually built on stilts above the water (there is a little plank bridge to reach it). In bed at night you hear the wash of passing boats so it sounds as if you are at sea. The teakwood deck on which I am writing this has a fine view of the river traffic. There are no bars or clubs or discoes nearby so the gap year crowd give it a miss. The last time we stayed was in Feb 2020, days before the Covid epidemic. On our return we got a warm welcome from the staff and immediately felt at home.
The food is excellent. Last night we had tom yam with prawns, deep fried whole sea bass and deep fried baby squid. We were greedy. There was a family party of a dozen Thais and three tables of Thai couples. We were the only foreigners. The view of the river and its lit up boats was just what we remembered. We never eat anywhere else when we stay in Bangkok.
Enough for now.
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Post by lumi on Jan 21, 2023 7:18:02 GMT 2
Sounds wonderful, Baz. May your days in Thailand all be so amazing!
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Post by OnlyMark on Jan 21, 2023 8:54:51 GMT 2
I'm sitting watching it snow outside. I think Thailand sounds far better. Keep us updated and enjoy yourself.
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Post by kuskiwi on Jan 21, 2023 10:02:24 GMT 2
Delighted to hear you have arrived safely and are ensconced in somewhere that will give you the care and warmth, both physically and mentally, you need after such a trying time.
I flew Eva a few years ago and really rated them highly, even in cattle class.
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Post by auntieannie on Jan 21, 2023 13:12:50 GMT 2
these posts, and particularly the OP, gladdens my heart. Sending winter sunshine to those who need it.
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Post by shrjeff on Jan 21, 2023 20:50:20 GMT 2
yep, we had wheelchair service for wendy returning from the azores... without it we wouldn't have been able to make it...
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Post by tzarine on Jan 24, 2023 11:04:09 GMT 2
baz thank you for sharing have a wonderful time
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Post by Netsuke on Jan 24, 2023 14:42:46 GMT 2
Your holiday beginning sounds wonderful Baz, your description so vivid I felt like I was there with you. Enjoy the days to come and have fun. Please say hello to Mrs Faz.
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Post by Baz Faz on Jan 28, 2023 6:47:11 GMT 2
Well, it is some time since I checked in here. This normally is the sign of a good holiday (which is true) but in my case it was because what I last wrote simply vanished. Anyway we are now on the little island of Ko Chang Noi. In Thailand confusingly there are 2 Ko Changs. One is by the Cambodian border and is well known to tourists. Ko Chang Noi is in the east and is so close to Myanmar that if you cough loudly the border guards might think you are shooting at them.
We stayed in Ko Chang Noi some 5 years ago and it has only changed a little bit. There is still no mains electricity so we have a generator supplying us for 4 hours in the evening. There are no cars but there are a few motorbikes now. There are no discos or clubs. There is one low key bar half a kilometre down the beach from us so we are not disturbed.
We have stayed before at Sawasdee Resort (don't be mislead by Resort - there are a dozen huts in a beautifully kept tropical garden and a restaurant, nothing more). The food is excellent. No need to eat anywhere else. On the contrary people staying elsewhere come here. The couple who started Sawasdee spent 6 years in Melbourne but deny knowing anyone called Netsuke. They do know westerners appreciate cleanliness so the sand (which stretches up from the beach proper under the huts and restaurant) is raked of leaves from the large trees which provide welcome shade twice a day. The sea is incredibly shallow just here so at low tide you must walk out 75 metres before your toes get wet. Mrs Faz has gone for a walk but she will enjoy a swim when she gets back. Alas, not me. I was given very fierce instructions not to get my left foot wet in case of infection. I have decided that hopping on my right foot is not an option.
This is high season but few guests are staying. Are people still afraid of Covid? You are more likely to catch it in crowded western cities than here. Actually getting to the island was an adventure. Nearly everyone comes on the "slow boat" (though powered by a motorbike engine it is not too slow). But embarking and disembarking means wading through shallow water and clambering up a ladder. Since I must not get my foot wet this is not possible. But there are jetties at Ranong (on the mainland) and here on the other side of the island and the "fast boat" uses this route. Excellent. Until you are confronted by the jetty. There is no gangway to the boat. There are steps, incredibly steep and narrow (Thais have small feet) which at the bottom are covered in mud; and inexplicably there is no handrail. I truly would not have been able to do this on my own but everybody is so helpful here. With people holding my arms (and Mrs Faz gripping my belt in case I slipped) I managed it. And when we arrived at Ko Chang jetty the procedure was reversed. People cheered when I did it and I waved my thanks.
We have another week here. That's all for now, folks.
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Post by Baz Faz on Jan 29, 2023 5:23:36 GMT 2
Nothing new to report. While we were having breakfast our room was cleaned and the bed linen changed. We were asked for the key to the room. It's not locked, we said. Many people here don't bother to lock their rooms because it is a safe and honest island and tourists who venture here are the same.
Mrs Faz has gone off for her morning walk. She does about 10,000 steps. Unfortunately I can't do this with her. This afternoon we'll go together on a short expedition. There are 2 options: along the beach which stretches round the bay for 3 kilometres, or on the concrete track inland until my foot says it has had enough. I am not in the least bored. The surgeon was against my coming to Thailand but I absolutely knew it was the right thing to do. The moment we arrived at Kaloang Home in Bangkok and had such a friendly welcome back my spirits lifted.
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Post by Baz Faz on Feb 4, 2023 4:52:01 GMT 2
We leave Little Ko Chang today. It has been a wonderful fortnight with good food and a great "resort". Now I have that boat trip back to the mainland to look forward to - getting on board down steep narrow steps with no handrail. Fortunately everybody here is so helpful to an old man with a hopeless foot.
I remember back three weeks ago when the surgeon at the hospital was appalled that we were going to Thailand. It was against her strongest advice and she insisted that we never stray far from a hospital. How wrong she was. Mrs Faz says I look well and happy. If we'd stayed in Chipping Sodbury I would have stared out of the window at the gloom and rain. This has been absolutely the right thing to do for both of us.
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Post by Baz Faz on Feb 4, 2023 10:20:29 GMT 2
We are back on the mainland though not without incident. It is a nightmare getting down the steps from the jettty onto the boat and then a nightmare disembarking. The steps are half the width of my feet and steep; plus there is no handrail. I cannot do this without assistance. Coming back to Ranong an hour ago Mrs Faz called out for someone to help. Normally there are Thais about who are very helpful but this time a young western man thrust himself forward onto the lethal steps and lost his balance. He fell but fortunately not into the water. He hurt himself a bit but seemed quite cheerful about.
Now we are going out for a cup of coffee and a cookie.
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Post by auntieannie on Feb 4, 2023 11:46:53 GMT 2
glad it wasn't you who fell, Baz! xxx
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Post by Netsuke on Feb 4, 2023 13:33:15 GMT 2
Mrs Faz says I look well and happy. If we'd stayed in Chipping Sodbury I would have stared out of the window at the gloom and rain. This has been absolutely the right thing to do for both of us. Baz, I was thinking the same - if you’d stayed home it’d be dark, damp and gloomy. How much better to be in Thailand where it is hot, humid with lovely people. When do you come home?
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Post by Baz Faz on Feb 4, 2023 14:56:35 GMT 2
We have another three weeks. We are in Ranong just for one night, postioning ourselves for toworrow's all day travel north-east. I hope the internet will be better as I can't spend any more time here. Time for dinner.
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Post by Voy on Feb 4, 2023 15:53:50 GMT 2
Safe travels - and we look forward to more Bazez on remote islands in Thailand ~
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Post by shrjeff on Feb 5, 2023 6:24:26 GMT 2
the chauvinism of the british doctor is sad... the thai medical staff are very well trained and top notch... perhaps she is threatened by the thai medical tourism...
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Post by Baz Faz on Feb 6, 2023 7:22:13 GMT 2
It was a tiring day. Taxi to Ranong airport. Flight Ranong to Bangkok Don Mueang airport. 2 hours was just enough to collect hold bags, find where check-in was (2 floors up), go through security (they insist I take my belt off but then my pants fall down), have coffee and a croissant, next flight to Udon Thani, then get the Limousine (a people carrier and there were about 8 of us)for the hour to Nong Khai. The driver didn't know where Mut Mee garden guest house was. By then we were down to us and one Thai woman who telephoned and got instructions.
We were stunned. We have stayed twice at Mut Mee but the last time was about 8 years ago. It has entirely changed. Gone is the wild garden and the common eating table. It is now smart - except for our room which is tiny and miserable. We are here for 3 weeks but we cannot change until Wednesday.
Posiitives. I am writing this at a long table in the garden that has wifi. The Mekong river is just across the wall. It is Laos over the water. This table is used by people who want to work so there is no chatter - except the man at the far end has just given me 3 oranges. Thank you. But it is not possible to eat oranges and work at a computer at the same time.
We have come here so I can work. No more for now.
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Post by kuskiwi on Feb 6, 2023 8:50:11 GMT 2
What a disappointment, although I'm sure you will manage and find more good things as the days go by and your work goes well.
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Post by Baz Faz on Feb 6, 2023 13:20:48 GMT 2
I have had a good session working and Mrs Faz has said to stop now. It is a man and woman at the end of the table. They are Thai and i don't think they are guests. They both have computers open and from time to time receive phone calls. My guess is they are locals using the table and wifi as their office.
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Post by Netsuke on Feb 6, 2023 13:30:05 GMT 2
Baz, will you be crossing the river into Laos? Oh how I wish I was with you ! I loved Laos! Rest your foot and drink plenty of wine water.
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Post by auntieannie on Feb 6, 2023 14:02:33 GMT 2
oh, the disappointment, Baz and Mrs Faz! xxx
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Post by Voy on Feb 6, 2023 14:28:04 GMT 2
I'm sure you will find something wonderful , day after tomorrow ! Meanwhile happy working at the long table !
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Post by Baz Faz on Feb 13, 2023 12:30:11 GMT 2
I had a day off work today so we went on an expedition. A guest here recommended The For Rest Café. Yes, that strange spelling. The tuktuk driver had never heard of it but finally rang them and got instructions. It was a 5 kilometre journey. Strange place. Gardens you could wander in, mist machines making it eerie, little waterfalls, large lake and a café. It was all Thais except us. We had lunch. Observing that the Thais without exception left their food unfinished we opted not to have Thai food. We had a pizza instead. That wasn't exciting either. Then the nice girl behind the counter in the café asked if she should phone the tuktuk driver to come and pick us up and he was there in 20 minutes. I think Covid knocked their plans askew. If the lake had a fountain and some rowboats it would be worth a longer visit.
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Post by Baz Faz on Feb 25, 2023 11:45:45 GMT 2
We got used to Mut Mee and the changes it has made. It got a bit tiresome towards the end as too many ppeople knew I was writing and wanted tips (where do I get ideas, do I do the whole plot first, etc), Mrs Faz found a hotel with a nice swimming pool and explored the town. So altogether it went well.
The overnight train journey was strange. We had a first class compartment to ourseles. People mutter about the expense but once you allow for the fact you save a night in a hotel it is not expensive. Steward with a menu came round before the train left and we ordered our meal. The train left on the dot. After 5 minutes it passed through a small station and we caught sight of an official in an office on a phone then saw him rush out still speaking on the phone. We went on a couple of minutes and then the train stopped in the middle of dark countryside. There was no announcement. The train was immobile for 90 minutes and then abruptly got moving again. Nobody knew why. The reult is we arrived in Bangkok an hour and a half late.
We pulled into the new station and it was AWFUL. My experience of terminal stations is that at the end of the platfown you go into a concourse with a ticket office, left luggage, café, taxis. There was none of that. There were feeble signs pointing down featureless concrete corridors. We peared at these feeble signs and could find no café or taxis. There wasn't even an information booth and no officials to ask directions. Eventually we found a small sign that said Exit. We went on to a concrete wasteland. No cafés, no taxis. In desperation we crossed this, crossed railway tracks, climbed a low wall. Mrs Faz saw a sign saying Pear Coffee (?) and with more crossing of roads we found this. Pear Coffee really made coffee to take away but the friendly woman found stools for us to sit on and Mrs Faz got small cakes from a vending machine so that was our breakfast..
So our experience of Bangkok's new station has been totally negative. We are never again going to take a train that leaves or terminates there. Mrs Faz only really indulges my wish to take a night train so she is happy.
We are back at Kaloang Home guesthouse. I am sitting on the deck with a view of water buses and longtail boats that ferry people across the river. Tonight we'll have a whole deep fried bass plus other goodies.So all is well.
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Post by Baz Faz on Feb 28, 2023 13:13:06 GMT 2
We got home last night at what our body clocks believed was 4.30 in the morning. Our local taxi driver Tony drove us from Heathrow to Chipping Sodbury though we dozed the whole way. We switched on the electric blanket and went to bed. Mrs Faz sensibly took a pill and slept well. I didn't so after a couple of hours my body clock said it was time to get up. I spent the next few hours sleepless.
We are getting back to normal bit by bit. I have tidied up in the kitchen and got food out of the freezer for tonight. I have made lists for shopping this morning. Mrs Faz is unpacking and has a load of washing on.
It was a really successful holiday in Thailand and just what we both needed after a bad 18 months. The medics was so adamant we should not go but we insisted and were proved right. Mrs Faz was brilliant changing the dressing on my foot every 2 days. The open wound on the sole of my foot is healing (thanks to her). We returned to places in Thailand that we had visited before (so knew I would cope). The medics would have screamed no-no at the sight of me going down narrow staeps with no handrail to get on and off a boat to the island we spent a fortnight on. But the Thais are full of respect for an old person wanting to live his life and were always there to help (and indeed applaud).
Our flight back as good but just very long. The non-stop flight BKK to LHR is nearly 13 hours. We have decided that for long haul flights our days of going in cattle class are over. The airline EVA has a brilliant business class. Our lunch took a couple of hours and you don't get a tray. Each of the 6 courses is brought individually on a dish. The wines were brilliant.
Now I think it is time for a cup of coffee then off to do the shopping.
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Post by auntieannie on Feb 28, 2023 20:54:12 GMT 2
Welcome home! glad you had a great time in Thailand.
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Post by sophie on Mar 1, 2023 2:30:03 GMT 2
Glad you had a good time with zero regrets about going. Welcome home!
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Post by Scrubb on Mar 1, 2023 7:22:16 GMT 2
So glad that it all worked out so well for you! And you missed the worst of gloomy winter at home. Happy spring!
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Post by OnlyMark on Mar 1, 2023 10:14:33 GMT 2
Glad you are back safe and well after your well deserved break/rest/holiday.
I also arrived back safe and sound at 11.30pm last night. I flew from Cancun to Mexico City, overnighted there, then from Mexico City to Frankfurt, Vienna and to Sarajevo. My body clock is in the other direction. It was weird that Frankfurt to Mexico on the way there was 12 and a half hours but coming back was 10 and a half. I know why, it's just strange. I used up a load of air miles and flew Lufthansa. It's on the opposite end of the scale to Eva Air. Seats were uncomfortable etc etc In fact on the way back I rejected one meal as being so bad. Told the cabin lady to just take it away, it's the worst thing I've ever been served in business class.
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