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Zambia
Dec 3, 2016 15:29:34 GMT 2
Post by Voy on Dec 3, 2016 15:29:34 GMT 2
whoa - that is SERIOUSLY different. I should it's hard, changing currency and all , to tell if they reduced the price... hah.
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Post by OnlyMark on Dec 7, 2016 15:24:43 GMT 2
Somewhere around 3 to 4 hours away from Lusaka is one of the major National Parks. It is called Kafue. I went there many years ago, probably so long ago that if I saw any animals, they'd be the children if not the grandchildren of those I saw originally. I did wonder if in their folklore they would have heard of me. Especially the two lions I watched for a good couple of hours mating. The male wasn't too pleased with being put off by the sound of camera shutters, I remember. I decided to overnight in the park mainly for a couple of reasons. To give the car a good run and also to try out the camping kit I brought with me, rather than going for a serious trip and finding something missing or kaput. Mrs M is away on business so it was the ideal opportunity to do so. We brought stuff from Spain such as a tent and sleeping bags but I've had to locate some other things here. One other reason is to see if using a normal tent as opposed to splashing out on a roof tent, is do-able and convenient. I tried to organise things in the same way as if we were heading out for a few days, especially as the old saying when camping is you end up carrying enough for a night as you do a fortnight. Apart from food and clothes, that is. So I bought a few cheap plastic boxes and divided stuff up and shoved it in the back of the car. I still carried things like a folding table and a full cooking kit even though I knew I wouldn't use them. They were just left inside but gave me an idea about what to pack and what to pack where. The first few hours along the tarmac road were drama-less, especially because I found some very, very long straight bits it seemed. Eventually though I turned off and spent a little time on something like this - Another turn led me down something a bit smaller - And the final turn along here - I wasn't really looking for animals though I know there are many. I'm not that lucky with them anyway as all I seem to be able to photograph is their backsides as they are walking away. I saw plenty of elephant tracks and poop but the only time they made an appearance was in the middle of the night around the campsite. There were a number of different deer/antelope, plenty of hippos in the river (but none decided to pose for me), tons of monkeys and some relations of Pumba skittered across in front of me with their comical tails held high. Just to prove I did see something - After some hours and ready for a break I hit the campsite, which is as usual, attached to a Lodge. There were just three pitches at the side of the river and as it is off season I managed to grab one of the two vacant ones. Behind those though are a number of others, maybe ten in total. For your information, camping was 150Kw (about 15 euro) per night. To stay in the Lodge would be about 300 euros per person per night. The view from my place - You can't see the hippos in any of these photos, but trust me, they were there and quite a raucous bunch too. My 'bit' of river bank - Looking back there are the other pitches - “Stuff” in the back of the car - My ringside seat for the afternoon and evening - Eventually I was accompanied by a little rainbow - There were a couple of toilet blocks, kept clean by a man who lived nearby in his own little hut. He was also on hand to help with anything like setting the fire, sorting out water, putting tents up and striking camp and rubbish collection - Each block had a septic tank and was supplied every morning and evening with hot water by one of these - Unfortunate evidence of previous game - I had a fairly peaceful night, if you excluded the night birds, insects and those bloody elephants traipsing through the camp. The hippos must have gone elsewhere. Maybe to a party down river, but they were quite quiet. On the way back today I grabbed a shot or two of the local residences strung along the road. Often each has an extended family and a bit of land to try and grow something - I needed to get back today for an appointment but I've a mind to nip away overnight again soon – just for research purposes, of course.
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Zambia
Dec 7, 2016 19:02:42 GMT 2
Post by Baz Faz on Dec 7, 2016 19:02:42 GMT 2
Kafue looks a lovely game reserve. It reminds me of Kruger in South Africa when I went in the 50s. In the smaller camps there were rondavels and in the evening everyone gathered round the big braai and swapped information about sightings. When Mrs Faz and I visited Kruger about 10 years ago it had changed fundamentally. Huts were modern. Most people ate in restaurants. But we were lucky enough to go to a basic little camp (just for 8 people) and go out for walks through the bush accompanied by a ranger and a guide. African elephants look very big when you are on foot.
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Post by sophie on Dec 7, 2016 19:26:29 GMT 2
Oh, Mark, thanks for the pictures. Brings back so many memories! I remember the Cape buffalo skulls laying about all over the plains. I think I need to go and look at my pictures from that area.
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Zambia
Dec 7, 2016 19:42:46 GMT 2
Post by kuskiwi on Dec 7, 2016 19:42:46 GMT 2
Thanks so much. Memories for so many of us obviously who were in Africa when campsites were just like the one you were in. Nice to see the campsite so clean and tidy. Enjoy.
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Zambia
Dec 7, 2016 20:19:09 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 7, 2016 20:19:09 GMT 2
Thanks.
Kafue is beautiful Baz and a lot of it isn't as commercialised as in say Kruger or Etosha in Namibia. In the 60's Kruger began to get overstocked with elephants and rather than cull them or have hunters pay to kill them it was decided to send quite a few to Zambia and specifically Kafue. The only reason I know is because on my way out of the park an elephant stopped me and asked if I knew Baz Faz. I think he stopped every car with a white man in it.
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Zambia
Dec 7, 2016 21:18:32 GMT 2
Post by Baz Faz on Dec 7, 2016 21:18:32 GMT 2
I hope you didn't give him my address. You see, I ran off with the Great She Elephant.
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Zambia
Dec 7, 2016 21:32:07 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 7, 2016 21:32:07 GMT 2
Is Mrs Faz reading this? Calling her that. You should be ashamed of yourself.
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Zambia
Dec 8, 2016 0:01:11 GMT 2
Post by Baz Faz on Dec 8, 2016 0:01:11 GMT 2
Au contraire, it is the Great She Elephant that is the boss.
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Zambia
Dec 8, 2016 11:29:11 GMT 2
Post by slowcoach on Dec 8, 2016 11:29:11 GMT 2
Nice,
Tracks look really good. No rain yet?
Like the split oil drum grill thingy.
I expect the park is about the size of Wales.
Why are so many things about the size of Wales?
Any crocodiles, big crocodiles?
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Zambia
Dec 8, 2016 13:01:34 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 8, 2016 13:01:34 GMT 2
There isn't quite enough rain yet to destroy the tracks. If it does rain it'll dry out fairly quickly, especially with the more sandy ones. You can see evidence in the first track photo but the third seems completely dry. In fact it was. The second track is more or less an all weather track you could probably scrape a 2wd down in the dry season. It did have a few dips that will get water in them later on though.
Conversely, Wales is about the size of Kafue. Maybe we should change to using the Kafue system of comparison in the UK press.
No crocs I saw. There are supposed to be plenty around but I was not warned about them at the campsite so they are probably quite a way away.
The park is massive and there are a number of different changes in environment. I tend to stick with the more sandy areas and wont go to the swamp/floodplain/wetlands areas. Mainly because of the black cotton type soil you tend to get there. I hate the stuff, got stuck a few times, got the T shirt, been there, done that. Give me sand any day.
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Zambia
Dec 10, 2016 15:45:24 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 10, 2016 15:45:24 GMT 2
The dead centre of Lusaka.You live in Lusaka and you've just died. You won't be bothered about much at all, but your relatives will. The main problem they will have is planting you somewhere. The choice would normally be in the Christian world to be burnt or planted but in Zambia, which is predominantly Christian, they don't believe in being cremated. It is said, "Local law allows cremation, but the country’s Christian majority rejects that option, usually on the grounds that it goes against Biblical teaching." "Pukuta Mwanza, executive director of the Evangelical Fellowship of Zambia, says cremation would be a “serious doctrinal departure.” About that I have no idea. What I do know though is that there are three public cemeteries in Lusaka – and they all are full. They are very popular because everyone is dying to get there. There are about 900 burials a month in the capital and people are having to resort to digging a hole in one of the access tracks through the cemeteries. "Mayor Nyendwa said while some plans could be underway to rehabilitate roads at the Leopards Hill cemetery, there was very little that could be done at the Chingwere where people were now burying on the road due to lack of burial space. “People are burying on the roads at the Chunga/ Chingwere cemetery because there is no more space for burials,” he said." Reports are that illegal plots are being sold and the grave diggers are also frequently unearthing previous bodies whilst trying to find enough space to dig a new hole. The one I visited today is called Leopards Hill Cemetery. It is about 275 hectares, 680 acres and is the middle one in size of the three. The public part is. There is also a private memorial area that I didn't visit, mainly because it is all manicured lawns and well set out, just the sort of place that we've all visited. The local one to me is a lot more appealing. A burial permit cost about $2 and the government has usually provided subsidies for public plots but the private areas cost between $200 - $500. Considering the gross national income in Zambia was about $1,680 in 2014, according to the World Bank, it is a big financial undertaking (pun intended). Leopards Hill is massive and rambling. There are a number of access points as it abuts a main road and there is no fence or wall to separate it. This is on one of the official entrances. We'll see it again later – This is the main track in – Various other tracks branch off – Probably only 10% of the graves have a headstone or anything to mark them other than a plot number. Unfortunately a lot of the plot markers have been shifted over time and it must be very difficult to find a specific one. Initially, knowing that these cemeteries are supposed to be full, I was amazed by all the open space. It's not until I started walking round that I realised it is full. There are burial mounds everywhere, unmarked and eroded. One step off the track and you are walking over them – A well loved mother and wife – Half dug graves awaiting new arrivals. I spoke to two grave diggers. They have no other work than digging. They get between them $50 per grave – Moving further around - Then we come to the Sillitoe family. I have no idea who they are but they managed to grab their own large plot – The Jolly family also – And I wonder what is the story behind this person's first name – The angel to look over you whilst you sleep – I then saw a group of three Chinese graves – It would have been lovely to be able to read them. But then I noticed the back of one of them – Before you judge, and I know you won't really, but just in case you do, bear in mind there are a number of cultures where being fat is a positive thing. It shows wealth and happiness. You have enough money to be able to buy enough food, so you are happy – As I came back to my car I saw that a ceremony was taking place. Different clothing style to what we are used to – That'll do for now.
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Zambia
Dec 10, 2016 16:48:45 GMT 2
Post by Voy on Dec 10, 2016 16:48:45 GMT 2
fascinating! and what do the letters before R I P stand for? MHS? ( near the bottom ), and MYS ( near the top )?
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Post by sophie on Dec 10, 2016 17:31:36 GMT 2
A cementery can say so much about a community. Interesting Chinese graves. Is there another section which was used during colonial days for Brits? Those headstones are, to me, so interesting as they show a different take on history.
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Zambia
Dec 10, 2016 18:10:44 GMT 2
Post by Baz Faz on Dec 10, 2016 18:10:44 GMT 2
RIP = Requiescat in pace (or in English Rest in peace).
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Zambia
Dec 10, 2016 18:13:15 GMT 2
Post by Baz Faz on Dec 10, 2016 18:13:15 GMT 2
It is sobering (for me) that with the exception of one of the Sillitoes every single dead person is younger than me. When we lived in the Hérault in France I took comfort from the headstones in our village graveyard where nearly everyone lived into their 80s or 90s.
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Zambia
Dec 10, 2016 18:39:26 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 10, 2016 18:39:26 GMT 2
Baz it was difficult to find an old person. In fact I didn't. There must be some but none that I saw. The life expectancy in Zambia is around 60 years. Which is a lot better, and that is an understatement, than around the year 2000 when it was early 40's.
Sophie, if there is a colonial section, I've not found it yet. Bear in mind the vastness of the three main cemeteries together, probably about 2000 acres, but I will ask if I'm there again. There is nothing I've seen on the interweb thingy or in books that indicates that there is. If so, then it could be prt of one of the private ones dotted around.
Voy, I will stand being corrected but I think - M.H.S = May His/Her Soul and then R.I.P as baz says. Also M.Y.S = May Your Soul........
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Zambia
Dec 10, 2016 19:06:42 GMT 2
Post by Voy on Dec 10, 2016 19:06:42 GMT 2
ahhh. that makes sense. thanks Mark. I knew the RIP part but those "prefixes" had me stumped. I like that. ( not being stumped, but what the letters stand for)
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Zambia
Dec 13, 2016 8:22:55 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 13, 2016 8:22:55 GMT 2
On the way out last night we headed for the pot of gold at the end. We were nearly late for our dinner trying to find it. Better luck next time -
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Zambia
Dec 14, 2016 0:51:32 GMT 2
Post by auntieannie on Dec 14, 2016 0:51:32 GMT 2
do they keep the tombs indefinitely? In Switzerland, we have a system of concession, whereby you pay for 25 years initially and then you can renew the rent of the plot. once the concession is not paid anymore, if they need the space, they can dig the grave up and put someone else in. With changing ways of life, there is not much digging up happening.
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Zambia
Dec 14, 2016 7:11:03 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 14, 2016 7:11:03 GMT 2
I think it is more unusual just to have a fixed period of time, like 25 years, than otherwise. What happens when there is nobody to renew it? Do they dig up the body because of unpaid bills and chuck the body away? If someone wants a prime spot do they have to wait it out and hope nobody renews? What happens to the gravestone of the previous person then? Other than for the State, I can't see what the advantage is in that system.
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Zambia
Dec 14, 2016 13:00:31 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 14, 2016 13:00:31 GMT 2
Part 4-ish or so of what a travelling spouse gets up to when the bread winner is at work - As usual I disappear out this morning and don't take my good camera with me. I usually keep a cheap point and shoot in my bag but I really must make a determined effort to remember. Hence I apologise for the quality but they are suitable to give you an overview. I mention this because, with the place being new to me, I'm constantly coming across things to photograph to give you an idea of what day to day life is like. When we move into some proper accommodation you can guarantee it is a bit bare. So we tend to buy or bring with us some colourful posters to hang on the walls. Some are fine just stuck on but others really need a proper frame. My task today was to call at a place that did framing as we've looked a lot in the normal shops and come up blank. On the way there I noticed a sign pointing off the main road for a supermarket I'd not heard of. The thing that stuck out was the sign was in multiple European languages. In conclusion - which I know normally comes at the end, but I like to be a little rebellious - I've found the place the Chinese come to do their vegetable shopping. It isn't a supermarket but an indoor market You know in a lot of reports about markets there are numerous mouth watering photos of all that is on offer. Not so here. The reason being there was nothing much here of note and even though a tad more expensive, I've found better in the normal supermarkets. There were no unusual veggies or meats or prepared food at all. It was a bit of a letdown. But, you have to take the rough with the smooth. The reason I know this is where the Chinese come is because there were three eateries around the building. All served Chinese food, all had menus just in Chinese and the cook cum helpers were Chinese. Not a local Zambian in sight and employed by them. I did though have a lovely big bowl of noodle and veg soup. It probably had a proper name but I just pointed at what a man sitting down had. On comical incident was these chaps - I had heard a crash a little away from me and a bowl of them had been dropped or knocked over resulting in a mad scramble to try and pick them all up before they ran off - They mainly came from Lake Kariba, about 3 hours or so away and were fresh that morning. Not appealing to me though.
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Zambia
Dec 15, 2016 11:58:59 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 15, 2016 11:58:59 GMT 2
Late breakfast today whilst shopping in a bit of a rush. The alarm didn't go off this morning so we were a bit late doing things. Cheese and broccoli pie with chips, and to keep it healthy, a coke lite. Total cost as it was a meal deal/menu was 3 euro - I'm not sure I really want to know about the last one -
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Zambia
Dec 15, 2016 22:53:09 GMT 2
Post by welle on Dec 15, 2016 22:53:09 GMT 2
Everything's bigger in America... even the Pringles. Joking aside, fascinating thread.
Love the beautiful blooming vegetation. The market looks really interesting. I would love to get a closer look at the malachite (assuming that's what it is?) and the masks.
Prices for groceries are a lot higher than I expected.
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Zambia
Dec 15, 2016 23:00:37 GMT 2
Post by welle on Dec 15, 2016 23:00:37 GMT 2
Wondering about the camping near the hippos-I read on the interwebs that they can be dangerous?
Again, fascinating thread. Makes me want to go travel.
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Zambia
Dec 16, 2016 7:04:25 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 16, 2016 7:04:25 GMT 2
Hippos are dangerous if you startle them or they notice you are between them and the water. Generally they are ok but as with any animal, if they feel threatened they'll react badly.
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Zambia
Dec 18, 2016 1:31:53 GMT 2
Post by auntieannie on Dec 18, 2016 1:31:53 GMT 2
Mark, you have to realise this is an old system from a country with not much available land and with a large majority of the population being of christian faith.
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Zambia
Dec 18, 2016 9:19:01 GMT 2
Post by OnlyMark on Dec 18, 2016 9:19:01 GMT 2
I understand what you say Annie, if we are talking about the cemetery thing, but - firstly there is a lot of unused land. The population density is a tenth of that of Swissieland or the UK and there are only 15 million or so people in a country bigger than France. Secondly, it is an archaic and wrong belief that the only option to dispose of a dead body is to bury it. Yes, I am being simplistic, but that is me, and I see no insurmountable reason why things cannot change.
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Zambia
Dec 18, 2016 18:49:51 GMT 2
Post by auntieannie on Dec 18, 2016 18:49:51 GMT 2
errrr. I think we're mixing things and getting ourselves confused.
It would be interesting to know how death/burials were handled in pre-colonial times in Zambia.
As for Switzerland, cremation is very popular now so the old tombs are mostly left in place.
To me the British system of leaving the tomb for all eternity is odd. For what it's worth.
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Zambia
Dec 18, 2016 19:38:11 GMT 2
Post by slowcoach on Dec 18, 2016 19:38:11 GMT 2
There have been a whole swathe of Burial Acts in the UK, around 10 in the Victorian era. Some at least were required to deal with the "Resurrection Men" (grave robbers). What you can and cannot now do with a grave is rather law-bound.
Under UK law, nobody can own a body, to the degree that you cannot steal one. So prosecutions had to be for stealing the shroud or rings etc., until it became illegal to open a grave, or tunnel into one.
To what degree that affects modern practise I cannot say but the real risk of a friend or relative being dug up when still barely cold repulsed the nation.
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